3racing Mini-Z Parts – Discover the Online Retailers That Keep the Most Competitively Priced 3racing Mini-Z Parts.

The realm of RC has lots of different facets; there’s really something for everyone. One of the areas I’ve set my sights on mastering is definitely the drift segment. It basically is the opposite of everything I’ve learned in terms of driving sliding is better than grip, more power does not mean a faster vehicle and tire compounds, well, plastic is superior to rubber. Then when 3Racing sent over their Axial Wraith, I had to scoop one approximately see what all the hoopla was using this type of drifter.


WHO Causes It To Be: 3Racing

WHO IT’S FOR: Any amount of drift enthusiast


HOW MUCH: $115.00



• AWD for simple learning ?

• Narrow 3mm FRP chassis ?

• Wide, high-angle dual bellcrank steering ?

• Highly adjustable front, Y-arm suspension ?

• Battery positioning before the motor or around the rear diffuser ?

• Aluminum motor mount ?

• Threaded shocks ?Plenty of tuning adjustment ?

• Extremely affordable pric


• Front drive belt slips off the roller bearing


This drifter has a lot opting for it; well manufactured, a great deal of pretty aluminum and rolls in in a very reasonable price. Handling is useful also when you get used to the kit setup, and yes it accepts an extremely number of body styles. There’s also a lot of tunability for individuals who like to tinker, and this car should grow together with you as the skills do.


The D4’s chassis can be a 3mm sheet of FRP, or Fiber-Reinforced Plastic. It has cutouts at the base for that front and rear diffs to peek through together with a bazillion countersunk holes. Many of these are used for mounting stuff like the bulkheads, servo and battery box, but you can find a number of left empty. They can be helpful to control chassis flex, however, not using the stock top deck; an optional you have to be obtained. The design is a lot like a typical touring car; front bulkhead/ suspension, steering system, electronics, battery box, motor mount system and lastly the back bulkhead/ suspension. Things are easily accessible and replaceable with only a few turns of some screws.

? Aside from a number of interesting pieces, a drifter’s suspension is nearly the same as a touring car’s. Just one A and D mount and separate B and C mounts are utilized, both having dual support screws and stamped, metal shims to raise them up. The suspension arms have droop screws, anti-roll bar mounts and adjustable wheelbase shims. The rear suspension uses vertical ball studs to deal with camber and roll whilst the front uses an interesting, dual pickup front Y-arm setup. This method allows the adjustment of camber, caster and roll and swings smoothly on lower and upper pivot balls. It’s actually quite unique and enables some extreme camber settings.

? A very important factor that’s pretty amazing with drift cars is definitely the serious amount of steering throw they may have. Beginning with the bellcranks, they’re positioned as far apart and also as near the edges of your chassis as you can. This results in a massive 65° angle, enough to manipulate the D4 in even the deepest of slides. Since drifters spend most of their time sideways, I wanted an excellent servo to take care of the constant countersteering enter Futaba’s S9551 Low-Pro? le Digital Servo.

Whilst not needing anything near its 122 oz. of torque, the .11 speed is de? nitely enough to keep up with any steering angle changes I need it a moment’s notice.

? The D4 relies on a dual belt design, spinning a front, fluid-filled gear differential and rear spool. A tremendous, 92T 48P spur is linked to the central gear shaft, where the front and rear belts meet. Pulleys keep the front belt high on top of the chassis, and 3mm CVDs transfer the ability for the wheels. Standardized 12mm hexes are included to enable utilizing a number of different wheel and tire combos.

? To present the D4 a certain amount of beauty, I prefered 3Racing Mini-Z parts body from ABC Hobby. This can be a beautiful replica with this car and included a slick group of decals, looking fantastic once mounted. I wasn’t sure how you can paint it, but I do remember an approach I used a little while back that got some attention. So, I gave the RX-3 a shot of pearl white in the underside, but painted the fenders black externally. After everything was dry, I shot the outer with a coat of Tamiya Flat Clear. I love the last result … and it was easy. That’s good because I’m a very impatient painter!

Around The TRACK

For this particular test, I had the privilege of putting this four-wheel drifter upon the iconic Tamiya track in Aliso Viejo, CA. I used to be heading there to do an image shoot for an additional vehicle and thought, heck, why not take it along and acquire some sideways action?


The steering about the D4 is very amazing. When I mentioned earlier, the throw is really a whopping 65 degrees with zero interference through the parts. The CVD’s can make that far, allowing smooth input of power at full lock. Although it does look a little funny together with the tires turned that far (remember, I’m a touring car guy), the D4 does a wonderful job of keeping the slide controlled and moving in the correct direction. This can be, in part, on account of the awesome handling in the D4, but also the speedy Futaba servo.


Drifting will not be about overall speed but wheel speed controlled. I realize that sounds odd, but when you’ve mastered the wheel speed of your own drifter, it is possible to control the angle of attack and also the sideways motion through any corner. I found Novak’s Drift Spec system allowed me to accomplish that make controlled, smooth throttle adjustments to modify the angle from the D4 where and when I needed. Sliding inside a little shallow? Increase throttle to find the tail end to whip out. Beginning to over cook the corner? Ease up a lttle bit along with the D4 would get back in line. It’s all a matter of ? nesse, along with the Novak system is ideal for just that. I did must be a little bit creative with all the install in the system because of limited space on the chassis, but overall it figured out great.


After driving connected touring cars for quite a while, it can do have a little becoming accustomed to understanding that a car losing grip and sliding is correctly throughout the track. It’s also good practice for managing throttle control when you have it, it’s beautiful. Taking a car and pitching it sideways through a sweeper, at the same time keeping the nose pointed in at less than a couple of inches from the curb … it’s actually very rewarding. It’s a controlled out of hand thing, and the D4 does it wonderfully. The kit setup is great, but if you think just like you need more of something anything there’s plenty of things to adjust. I just enjoyed the vehicle with the kit setup and yes it was just an issue of battery power pack or two before I used to be swinging the rear across the hairpins, across the carousel and back and forth with the chicane. I never had an opportunity to strap battery about the diffuser, but that’s something I’m looking towards.


There’s little that you can do to damage a drift car they’re not really going everything that fast. I have done, however, provide an trouble with the top belt’s bearing pulley mounted to the top deck. During the initial run, it suddenly felt much like the D4 acquired a bit drag brake. I kept with it, trying to overcome the issue with driving, but soon were required to RPM Traxxas Revo parts it in to actually check it out. Throughout the build, the belt slips in a plastic ‘tunnel’ that may be backed by a bearing, keeping it above any chassis mounted items like the ESC or servo. The belt, though, doesn’t sit square around the bearing; it’s half on and half off. So, if the drivetrain is spooling up, the belt will sometimes slide off of the bearing, ?opping around and catching on anything it comes down in contact with. To ?x this, I simply 3raccingSakura a prolonged screw with a number of 1mm shims to space the bearing out a little bit more. Problem solved.